Fitting new taps

Fitting new taps is required either because it is part of the installation of a new bath/basin, or because the taps on a bath/basin have become old and worn or simply for cosmetic reasons. The type of taps you can have are dependent upon your bath / basin.

If there is one hole for the taps, then you will require a mono-bloc mixer (these have two smaller diameter pipes coming out of the single hole for hot and cold). If there is two holes then you can have separate hot / cold taps or a two hole mixer (two taps one spout). Some mixers also have a lever on them for controlling the plug (i.e. opening and closing).

If replacing the existing taps as opposed to being part of the installation of a new basin/bath, the first thing to do is to disconnect the water. Turn on the taps full to drain any water still in the system. The process of removing the existing taps could prove to be quite problematic due to the restricted access that is often the case.
 
Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut, which connects the supply pipes to the taps. Some water will come from the pipes, so have a cloth ready. Once the supply pipes have been removed use the same tool to loosen the nut that is holding the taps onto the bath/basin - the single taps will have to be stopped from turning during this process. Once the taps have been removed the holes in the bath/basin have to be cleaned of any old sealing compound.

Before fitting the new taps, compare the pipe connections on the old taps to the new taps. If the old taps are longer than the new taps then a shank adapter is required so the new taps will fit.

If the tails of the new taps are plastic then a plastic connector is required to prevent damage to the thread; one end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end provides a connection to the existing supply pipes.

If a monobloc is to be fitted then reducing couplers will be required. The reducing coupler allows the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to connect to the standard 15mm supply pipe.
 
Then to fit the new taps, position the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washers are in place on top between the tap and the sink. Then secure the tap in place with the backnut provided. When the tap is securely in place the supply pipes can be connected to the tails of the taps.
 
The taps can either be connected with normal tap connectors or by using corrugated copper piping. The corrugated piping has the advantage that it can be bent to compensate for misalignment of the supply pipes to the taps. The corrugated pipes have a tap fitting at one end and compression fitting at the other. The corrugated pipes should be connected to the tap ends first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipes can then be connected to the other end. Once they have been connected both ends can be tightened with a spanner.

When the taps have been connected the water supply can be turned back on. Any new pipework should be checked for leaks. If any leaks occur they can mostly be stopped by simply tightening joins otherwise the system will have to be drained and a closer and more thorough investigation should occur.


Click here for more details on this 3 Hole Basin Mixer With Pop Up Waste.

Luxury Shower Baths

The City Collection - Space Saver - White Luxury Shower Bath
Click here for more details on this and other luxury shower baths

How to unclog a bathtub drain

How to Install a New Delta Bathroom Faucet

Click here for more details on this Delta - for Foro Basin

Which uses more water a bath or a shower?

It depends on the length of the shower, and the flow of water. Shower heads can usually allow anywhere between 2.5 and 5 gallons of water a minute. Most baths require 30-50 gallons of water.
To save energy the length of the shower x, multiplied by the water flow y, must equal less than the amount of water used in the bath.

Click here for more details on this shower bath and others

How to Install a Shower Tray

If you are considering a bathroom remodel and you are looking to replace your shower, you need to make sure to install a waterproof shower tray as well as the proper enclosure. Shower trays sit on the floor of the shower and provide the base. They come with a lip which prevents water from leaking out into your walls causing mold, mildew, and wood rot.

Things you'll need: tape measure, sand, cement, bucket, trowel, thinset mortar, shower tray, drill mortar & pan head screws.  

Instructions

•  1
  Measure the dimensions of your shower floor. Shower trays come in many different sizes and colors. They usually come square, rectangular, or round. Choose the shower tray that fits your measured dimensions.
• 2
  Place a 2-inch layer of sand on the floor of your shower. Add a 2-inch layer of cement. Smooth it out with a trowel. This creates an even base for your shower tray. It also seals any leaks on the shower floor. Keep the sand and the cement away from the drain. Let the cement dry for a day.
• 3
  Apply a 1/4-inch layer of thinset mortar to the cement after it dries. The thinset is used as an adhesive to hold the shower tray in place.
• 4
  Install the shower tray into the shower. Lay it on top of the prepared shower floor, lined up with the shower drain. The shower tray comes already sloped so the water runs to the drain. There is no need to angle it when setting it in place.
• 5
  Pre-drill 2 holes in the top of the lip on each side of the tray. Space them evenly apart. Insert pan-head screws into the holes to secure the tray.
  
  
  Click here for more details on this shower tray and to see more shower trays available

Choosing a bathroom sink

Click here for more details on this Burlington - Victorian - Large Basin & Towel Rail

How to install a bathroom mirror with cabinets

Instructions

things you'll need:

• Screwdriver
• Level
• Marking pencil
• Stud finder
• Hollow wall fasteners
• Tape measure
• Cordless drill
• Screws included with cabinet

• 1
  Remove the mirrored doors to the bathroom cabinet. This is usually accomplished by unscrewing the hinges. Set aside the doors.
• 2
  Determine the placement of the bathroom mirror with cabinets. With the help of a friend, hold the bathroom cabinet against the wall. Center the cabinet over the sink about 40 inches from the floor. Place the level on the cabinet shelf to ensure that it is sitting evenly.
• 3
  Trace around the outside of the bathroom cabinet with a pencil. Set the cabinet aside.
• 4
  Locate the studs in the traced area using a stud finder; mark with a pencil. If you can not find suitable studs in the immediate area, you will need to use hollow wall anchors, installed according to the package directions.
• 5
  Measure the location of the studs in relation to the traced outline of your cabinet. Transfer these marks to the bathroom mirror with cabinets, determining the best placement for your screws. The top screws should penetrate the reinforcement strip on the back of the cabinet door.
• 6
  Drill holes part way into the wall; you will want to clear the drywall and just start to penetrate the stud. Drill the screw holes completely through the back of the cabinet door.
• 7
  Hold the bathroom cabinet against the wall firmly, enlisting the help of a friend. Check to make sure the cabinet is level, adjusting your placement as necessary. Match the wall holes with the holes in the cabinet.
• 8
  Use the screwdriver to secure the cabinet to the wall with the included screws, ensuring that the screws sink deeply into the stud. Ideally, you should have at least four screws: two on the top of the cabinet and two on the bottom. The top screws should catch the reinforcement strip on the back of the cabinet.
• 9
  Reinstall the mirrored doors on your bathroom mirror with cabinet.

 

Click here for more details on this cabinet with mirrors or to see other bathroom cabinets available.

The Hi-Flow Waste is designed for bathrooms where there is easy under house access

The Hi-Flow Waste can be used with a range of shower trays. Click here for more details on Hi-Flow Waste & Traps


Click here for more details on this shower tray 

Complement your bathroom suit with a superb selection of modern taps and shower mixers

Mystyle - Block Range - Mono Basin Mixer

Click here for more details on this Mono Basin Mixer

This D Shape Shower Enclosure makes cleaning easy with removable door

 • 6mm Safety Glass. • Adjustable wall profiles for out of true walls. • Dedicated shower tray re-enforced acrylic excluding waste.

Click here for more details on this shower enclosure and other shower enclosures available at Exclusive Bathrooms

What is a P-Trap

That u-shaped piece of pipe under your sink is called a p-trap.  It's design has two purposes: First, to allow the water from the sink to flow out and keep noxious gas from coming in, and second, to catch items that might go down the drain (wedding rings) before they are swept away.


Click here for more details on this p-trap and other p-traps available

How to Install a Bathroom Drain Waste Vent System

Most Common Mistakes

1. Violating or ignoring code restrictions,
2. Not installing D/W/V with at least a 1/4" slope per one foot pipe,
3. Not properly venting or trapping all fixtures,
4. Attaching too many fixtures to a drain or vent pipe,
5. Using pipes that are too small,
6. Not providing enough cleanouts or not providing cleanouts at the prescribed places,
7. Venting the fixture too far from the fixture's trap,
8. Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
9. Using a fitting in a wrong position,
10. Installing rough plumbing in the wrong location,
11. Reducing pipe size as the pipes run downstream,

12. Cutting pipe too long and not allowing for the ridge in the fittings, and
13. Forcing the trap and waste arm fittings out of alignment and putting too much stress on the nuts and washers in the tubing.
14. Make certain the compression tubing is put in the fittings so that it is evenly tightened.

Installing Drain Waste Vent Pipe

Running the pipe can be tricky. All different kinds of fittings are available to turn in different and receive different sizes of pipe at various angles. One fitting may need 3 opening ports, all accommodating a different size pipe. You will have to plan your runs and buy the necessary fittings (always get a few extra). Keep in mind that codes may regulate how fittings can be used (i.e. sanitary tees may not be used in vertical to horizontal connections; long sweep connection must be used here). You will need to know the diameter of your pipes, their angles, the code and their direction to determine each fitting.

Towel radiators are a certain type of radiators that were originally designed to dry towels in bathrooms and kitchens. However in the past decade they have become a standard item in every bathroom in the UK

With the increase in the production of larger sizes, towel radiators are increasingly installed in dining and sitting rooms too due to their elegant and versatile looks.

Click here for more details on this towel rail

This element is for background and full room heat and is controlled by the water temperature

Including radiator temperature thermostat for horzontal installation and T piece .It can be rated up to the output of the radiator. This is for horizontal installations only.

Click here for more details on this Element and other types of Elements.

Celsius is the most forward thinking development to be seen in the bath industry for many years

With bold, cutting edge design concepts, the Celsius range of baths feature original technology advancements such as a concealed and combined overflow/filler option, a rectangular, clicker waste and a smooth, one-peice panel design. The sleek, sharp lines of the Celsius baths complements in ceramics and brassware.


Celsius is brought to you by Carron Bathrooms, a company with a 250 year hettitage in design and manufacturing excellence.  Click here to see more details on this Celsius bath and more.